Multipitch Routes
(1) Sunnyside Bench, Regular Route (5.5, 3 pitches)
(2) Swan Slab, Swan Slab Gully (5.6, 3 pitches)
(3) Ranger Rock, After Seven/After Six (5.8, 5 pitches)
(4) Five Open Books, Commitment (5.9, 3 pitches)
(5) Sunnyside Bench, Jamcrack (5.9, 2 pitches)
(6) Ranger Rock, Nutcracker (5.8, 5 pitches)
(7) Higher Cathedral, Braille Book (5.8+, 6 pitches)
(8) Middle Cathedral, Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9, 5 pitches)
(9) Royal Arches, Royal Arches (5.10a, 15 pitches) + North Dome, Crest Jewel (5.10, 15 pitches)
(10) Reed’s Pinnacle, Direct Route (5.10a, 3 pitches)
(11) Middle Cathedral, East Buttress (5.10c A0, 11 pitches)
(12) El Capitan, East Buttress (5.10b, 11 pitches)
A great climb for breaking into 5.10. The crux pitches are very low, and after the second pitch the climbing is mostly 5.6-5.8.
(13) Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathé (5.10-, 15 pitches)
More sustained and demanding than East Buttress. Out of 15 pitches, 11 require some type of wide climbing technique. Will hone offwidth skills.
(14) Higher Cathedral, Northeast Buttress (5.9+, 11 pitches)
Next step up from Steck Salathé. Requires a little of every different technique. Will test our ability to climb back-to-back hard and physical 5.9 pitches.
(15) Royal Arches, Serenity Crack (5.10d, 3 pitches)/Sons of Yesterday (5.10a, 6 pitches)
The best multipitch 5.10 route in the valley.
(16) Lower Cathedral, South by Southwest (5.11a, 6 pitches)
Beautiful, extremely exposed, perfectly protected. A great way to break into 5.11 multipitch.
(17) El Cap Base, Moratorium (5.11b, 5 pitches)
A good step up from South by Southwest. Crux involves technical stemming and lots of liebacking. Link it with East Buttress of El Cap for a full day.
(18) Middle Cathedral, DNB (5.11, 19 pitches)
Lower pitches follow face and crack features, and higher pitches involve chimneys. A burly testpiece. Will prepare us for the commitment and endurance required for Astroman.
(19) The Rostrum, North Face (5.11c, 8 pitches)
The best eight-pitch crack collection in the valley. Good indication on how ready we are for Astroman.
(20) Washington Column, Astroman (5.11c, 12 pitches)
Two pitches are easy, five are 5.10, and five are 5.11.
(21) Lower Cathedral, Beggar’s Buttress (5.11c, 9 pitches)
(22) El Capitan, Freeblast (5.11, 10 pitches)
(23) Higher Cathedral, The Crucifix (5.12b, 5 pitches)
(24) El Capitan, West Face (5.11c, 20 pitches)
(25) Half Dome, Autobahn (5.11+, 12 pitches)
(26) El Cap Base, Burden of Dreams (5.12a/b, 5 pitches)
(27) Middle Cathedral, Border Country (5.12c, 12 pitches)
(28) El Capitan, The Nose (5.9 C2, 31 pitches)
(29) El Capitan, Freerider (5.13a, 30 pitches)
Climbing Base Progression
Bouldering
- Boulder V0
- Boulder V1
- Boulder V2
- Boulder V3
- Boulder V4
- Boulder V5
- Boulder V6
- Boulder V7
- Boulder V8
- Boulder V9
Sport Climbing
- Redpoint 5.4
- Redpoint 5.5
- Redpoint 5.6
- Redpoint 5.7
- Redpoint 5.8
- Redpoint 5.9
- Redpoint 5.10a
- Redpoint 5.10b
- Redpoint 5.10c
- Redpoint 5.10d
- Redpoint 5.11a
- Redpoint 5.11b
- Redpoint 5.11c
- Redpoint 5.11d
- Redpoint 5.12a
- Redpoint 5.12b
- Redpoint 5.12c
- Redpoint 5.12d
- Redpoint 5.13a
- Redpoint 5.13b
- Redpoint 5.13c
Technical Climbing Progression
(1) El Cap Base, Pine Line (5.7)
For polished finger-crack technique.
(2) Church Bowl, Bishops Terrace (5.8)
For hand-crack technique.
(3) Swan Slab, Lena’s Lieback Pitch 1 (5.9)
For lieback technique.
(4) New Diversions, New Deviations (5.9)
Varied crack and knobs.
(5) Cookie Cliff, Beverly’s Tower (5.10a)
A great climb to break into 5.10.
(6) El Cap Base, Moby Dick Center (5.10a)
Starts with a powerful, thin and technical finger crack, then widens to a fist crack/offwidth above.
(7) Five & Dime Cliff, Copper Penny (5.10a)
Face and offwidth.
(8) Reed’s Pinnacle Area, Stone Groove (5.10b)
Tight hands and some hard moves.
(9) Pat and Jack Pinnacle, Knob Job (5.10b)
To train face climbing and being calm on a runout.
(10) Reed’s Pinnacle Area, Lunatic Fringe (5.10c)
Steep and relentless. Finger locks, liebacking, thin hands, and some face moves.
(11) Cookie Cliff, Outer Limits (5.10c)
A pumpy 5.10 that can be lapped on toprope.
(12) Cookie Cliff, Wheat Thin (5.10c)
Starts from the top of Beverly’s Tower.
(13) Cookie Cliff, Twilight Zone (5.10d)
Burly offwidth moves.
(14) Pat and Jack Pinnacle, Book ’em, Dano (5.10d)
To train face climbing and being calm on a runout.
(15) Pat and Jack Pinnacle, Skinheads (5.10d)
To train face climbing and being calm on a runout.
(16) Pat and Jack Pinnacle, The Tube (5.11a)
A crack climb that demands delicate foot- and bodywork like a face climb.
(17) Cookie Cliff, Butterballs (5.11c)
A hard finger crack that can be toproped after leading Wheat Thin.